Among the first in the country to go into Covid-19 lockdown, the city has also experienced the effects of protests and wildfires. It has been vertiginous for a dining community shaped by prosperity.
With the dual pressures of unrest and the pandemic, black chefs are contemplating the ways this holiday can help Americans cope.
Owners of many small, independent restaurants were passed over by a federal loan program. Now they fear that a new round may not solve their problems.